Just a few pics of one of my favorite local crags here in western Oregon.
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Nice looking routes. The color looks like granite but the contours look sedimentary.
Is he going to put a Tuber in that off-width?
One instructor I knew always harped on "down and out" as where the gates on carabiners should face. Out so they won't get jarred open against the rock face, down so if they do open the rope won't fall out. This was pre-wire gate cautiousness though.
Thanks for posting!
CallMeDave
Level 8
Sep 30, 2019
1
The rock is andesite which is related to basalt. The wide crack was protected with big cams and big bros and has been lead only once as far as I know.
@Mostly_Harmless Big Bros is what I was thinking of. I believe there was a predescesor that was not adjustable. Could have been some home made stuff.
Chouinard equipment (which eventually became Black Diamond) made tube chocks. Not adjustable and not very stable. The Big Bros were a huge improvement. Still, those wide cracks kick my ass!!!
As for the "down and out" thing: yeah, they need to be oriented that way so you can clip the rope in. When you use alpine quickdraws they sometimes flip after you clip them but it doesn't make them any less safe.
@Mostly_Harmless fortunately we have Pam to show the way.
@CallMeDave Yeah, Pam went to college in my home town. I knew her pretty well while she was learning to climb. She started the wide crack stuff after she moved away. We are still in touch a little bit but I haven't seen her in years.
@Mostly_Harmless That is awesome. I have a lot of respect for anyone who approaches outdoor recreation the way she seems to.
Also, if you happen to hear that Pam needs a belayer, could you drop my name? kthnx
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